Post Model Car Lifts

Most commonly found in private shops, two-post automotive lifts deal with vehicles of several sizes and weights and only require a small amount of space. This version comes in two styles. An asymmetrical version has centered posts to provide access to the interior of the vehicle and is better for vehicles with heavier rear ends. Symmetrical two-post models stand opposite of each other and have stabilizer bars in the opposite direction. The vehicle’s weight is centered on the equipment.

Commonly found in showrooms and car shows, the four-post version is a better fit for heavy vehicles and storage. The additional posts on this style of lift add stability to the equipment. This style allows vehicles to be driven up onto it, which makes them very convenient to use in comparison to two-post styles.

Parallelogram Styles

Parallelogram or scissor automotive lifts are best known for their ability to make space under a vehicle in private workshops. They are also better suited for large framed vehicles like buses and delivery trucks. These benefits do come with a price, however. First, these models cost considerably more than four-post car lifts. They also require a large amount of space to use and are not recommended for storing vehicles.

Hydraulic Systems

This style is a favorite of many professional mechanics for the effort it takes out of the job. The hydraulics involves a series of liquids put under pressure by a set of pumps and cylinders. This version has increased security combined with the added convenience of use.

Most of these car lifts use a combination of electricity and hydraulics and are one of the most common lifts seen in auto shops because the power is used to run hydraulics. They are quick to raise and lower and have the power and stability needed for storage. Professional vehicle storage companies as well as mechanics use these systems on a constant basis.

In-Ground Styles And Mechanical Automotive Lists

Systems set in-ground are a favorite of big auto repair shops and other professionals who need space while working with these systems. Cars can stay on the lifts overnight if need be, and with the lift at ground level, it frees up as much space as possible. Commercial businesses also use these systems because they prevent having vehicles damaged due to of a lack of space. Unfortunately, this style of car lift also comes with a significant price tag to match.

Mechanical car lifts look very similar to the hydraulic style previously discussed minus the hydraulic systems. Instead of liquids, pumps, and cylinders, mechanical systems use screws, locks, bolts, and wrenches to suspend a vehicle. Because these units do not cost a whole lot more than hydraulic versions, these are a rare find in the automotive industry.

Auto Lifts For Specific Uses

Smaller shops that need to store more than one vehicle often utilize space saving automotive lifts. These will store one vehicle on the top and allow a second vehicle underneath with mere inches to spare. Since show floors and high-end car shows are all about looks, showcase lifts have a high aesthetic value. They are sturdy enough for storing vehicles, but have finishes and features that compliment the top end of the automotive market. Large commercial and showcasing units come in different styles to meet the needs of the event. Most commonly, these automotive lifts are seen at big auto dealers and professional car shows.

These are just some of the automotive lifts available to consumers. Certain versions have been designed specifically for storage while others were created with industrial work in mind. The smaller garages and automotive enthusiasts were not left out either. Car lifts have a variety of sizes, shapes, and mechanical actions to suit every purpose.

Martin Tools 276-3731: Hydraulic Wrenches

TITAN IS A CUT ABOVE THE COMPETITION IN THE ABILITY TO MANUFACTURE HYDRAULIC TORQUE WRENCHES. THE SECRET IS OUT!!! TITAN RULES!!

Wrenches are quite literally the plumbers “must-have” tool. The plumbers needs adjustable wrenches and, of course, pipe wrenches.
 
Adjustable wrenches do just that, they adjust to fit the job by means of the fitted jaw applying the needed force. While they come in sizes ranging from 4″ to 2′ long, most DIY plumbers can get by with those, which have 10″, or 12″ handles.
 
Pipe wrenches are used for grabbing onto and manipulating pipes and pipe fittings, which have “threads”. Sizes range from 12″ to 18″, and, of course, are designed to fit whatever size pipe is being worked on. Pipe wrenches, however, work differently from adjustable wrenches, in that they require that the permanent jaw be the one to which the force is applied.
 
Rib-joint pliers and locking pliers are also two tools, which no plumber should be without. Rib-joint pliers are essentially adjusting pliers, as the jaw can be moved back and forth to accommodate different sizes of pipes, fittings, nuts, bolts, or other objects. Locking pliers hold things stationary, but they also can be adjusted to fit whatever it is they are holding.
 
Screwdrivers are practically indispensable to the DIY plumber. These nifty tools perform a vast array of functions besides just tightening and loosening screws. The smart DIY plumber will have a number of these in various sizes.
 
The main part of plumbing is, of course, working with pipes. And, sometimes, pipes must be cut. So, what does the plumber use to accomplish this task? Pipe cutters, of course, in appropriate sizes and designs for the many types of pipe that may be encountered.
 
Not all pipes are the same length, and not all plumbing jobs require the same length of pipe. This is no problem when one has a measuring tape, preferably the steel type, and sufficiently long enough, usually at least 25′, so that it can extend for several feet without needing to be supported.
 
Clogged drains are another task with which the DIY plumber may be faced. However, by judicious application of the appropriate drain clearing tool will once more allow the water to flow freely. The tools themselves may be as simple as a plumbers helper (also known as a plunger), or the slightly more complex hydraulic blow bag.

Others, on the other hand, you may have never seen before. Because some plumber’s tools serve purposes very different from those of household tools that perform minor repairs, they are considered specific to the operations they are designed to carry out.

Whether you’re thinking about doing some do-it-yourself plumbing at home or just curious about tools you’ve seen your plumber use, the guide below will help familiarize you with tools that a plumber might use on the job.

Tools You Might be Familiar With

Some of the tools that a plumber might need to use include tools you’ve seen a million times, though their applications might be a bit different.

Adjustable Wrenches

Adjustable wrenches can be opened or closed to fit several different sizes of nuts and bolts. There are different sizes of adjustable wrenches, but a plumber should have at least a standard 10″ to 12″ adjustable wrench.

Pipe Wrenches

Because a lot of plumbing takes place in and around pipes, this tool is indispensible to plumbers. Pipe wrenches use their adjustable and toothed jaws to grip and turn threaded pipes and pipe fittings. Pipe wrenches range in size from 12″ wrenches to 18″ wrenches. A plumber is likely to need at least a couple different sizes of this tool.

Rib-joint Pliers

This is another adjustable tool that is very useful for turning nuts, bolts, pipes and fittings. It is also used to grip objects of various sizes firmly.

Locking Pliers

This tool is used by plumbers to perform clamping actions. They are often to lock a bolt or pipe in place while the plumber is working with other pieces.

Screwdrivers

Plumbers use screwdrivers in many of the same ways you might use them around the house. They generally need to have at least a couple of different sized screwdrivers for job such as removing plumbing-related appliances or disassembling faucets in order to replace washers.

Measuring Tape

Plumbers often need to measure runs of pipe as well as distances between different plumbing components.

Tools That You Might Not Have Used Before

Pipe Cutters

A pipe cutter is an essential tool that every plumber should have. It’s not to say that every plumber should use this tool on every single job, but it definitely is used with some frequency.

Drain Augers

You may have heard plumbers refer to a “snake.” A drain auger falls under this category and is basically a device designed to remove clogs that can’t be pushed through by a plunger. The device consists of a coiled metal wire with space between the coils at the end. The other end contains a device with a crank that rotates the wire as it moves down into the pipe or drain.

Toilet Augers

This type of auger, also commonly referred to as a “closet auger” is based on the same premise as a drain auger but is specifically designed for use with clogged toilets.

Hydraulic Blow Bags

Toilet and Sink Plungers

Martin Tools 276-3726: Hydraulic Wrenches

Before you get started, there are important oil disposal laws you must understand otherwise you could be fined by the EPA fines that go as high as six figures. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone. Environmental authorities suggest you pour old oil into a clean plastic container and take it to a service dealer or facility that offers oil-collection services. Call your state or local used-oil program for locations of collection centers. Call 1-800-424-9346 for a list of state oil-recycling contacts or write to Resource Conservation and Recovery Docket, 401 M St., S.W., Washington, DC 20460.

Now, if you’re still interested in tackling this task yourself, Edmunds has created a Do-It Yourself List. To start, here is a list of tools and things you’ll need to perform this procedure:

* a 3/8-drive socket set (metric will work for both)
* a combination wrench set (closed- and open-ended, metric)
* an oil filter wrench
* something to catch the old oil — an oil pan, a used kitchen basin, a kid’s pail
* a couple of empty one gallon milk containers with screw-on lids.
* a funnel and a one quart Ziploc baggie
* a lot of old newspapers and several dirty rags
* presoiled work clothes and, if you have long hair, a baseball cap
* two pair surgical gloves (optional; no, we won’t ask you to cough)
* a new oil filter (see vehicle’s owner’s manual for requirements)
* enough oil to refill the engine (check back page of owner’s manual for grade and number of quarts); we recommend name brands, such as Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil, etc.

STEP ONE: Before you do anything, pick out a flat spot on your driveway. Now take your car for a drive around the neighborhood. We do this to heat the oil and make it nice and thin, so it will drain more completely from the engine block. Drive the vehicle far enough and long enough so that the temperature gauge begins to register. If you don’t have a temp gauge, or if you have gauges but they’re broken, turn on the heater and drive until your feet get toasty. The engine is now warm. Park it in your pre-chosen spot.

STEP TWO: Turn off the engine, put the car in gear, and set the parking brake firmly. For safety, block the tires with several bricks or large rocks. Go in the house and put on your dirty clothes and cap. Come out and line up your tools.

Now slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. If there isn’t enough room to slide under, you may have to jack up the car to get beneath it. Raise the car with a hydraulic pump and settle it on jackstands. CAUTION: Never get under a car held aloft only by a jack. Always use jackstands.

O.K., now locate the drain plug. It should be about the closest thing to the ground, a fairly large nut with a slim washer under it. Sometimes it will even be labeled “drain plug.” (Caution: Make sure you’re not looking at the transmission drain plug. It’s usually a larger nut. If not sure, feel the metal around it. The metal around the engine oil plug should be a lot hotter than around the trans plug. If still not sure, call a friend.) Find your socket set and pull out several sockets that look about the same size as the nut until you find one that fits over it.

STEP THREE: If you have them, put on your surgical gloves to keep your hands clean. Grab the socket wrench and put the correct-sized socket on it. Place it over the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. It won’t budge? Try again — really put some force into it this time. If it still won’t dislodge after several tries, locate the same sized closed-end wrench and use that instead. After you get the nut cracked, work it slightly loose with your fingers. Not too loose, though — you don’t want oil all over the place.

STEP FOUR: Now take the newspaper and spread it under the car. Make sure to cover where the oil filter sticks out, because it drips after removal. Look up into the engine. See the oil filter? It looks like a miniature, upside-down version of the mountain from “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” Get the drain pan (or kitchen basin, or kid’s pail) and slide it under the drain plug. Position it so the stream hits it just right (if the plug points to the side and not straight down, the oil will shoot out sideways like from a fire hydrant). Loosen the plug and set it aside. Most of the oil will drain in about two minutes.

STEP FIVE: Locate the oil filter wrench. Take the socket off the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto the socket wrench. You’ll probably want to use the short extension, too. The oil filter wrench is like a round dog collar that only chokes in one direction. Set it up to “grab” or “choke” counterclockwise. Slip it over the oil filter and give it a tug. It shouldn’t be that tight. When you feel it give, loosen it a little more, then slide the wrench off and do the rest by hand. Careful — it has hot oil in it! Make sure your face is not under it. Remove it all the way and pour the contents into the drain pan. Set the used oil filter right-side-up on the newspaper.

STEP SIX: Slide out, open the hood (if you haven’t already) and remove the oil filler cap. Set it aside. This will help the oil drain a little easier. O.K., take a breather.

Now, here’s the deal. If you’re in a hurry, you can dive right in and finish the oil change. But think about it. Drops of dirty oil are still dripping down. Personally, we like to give it a good hour to drain completely. They don’t do that in the quick-lube places. If you have the time, peel off your gloves and take a break. Grab a bite, drink some soda, watch the tube.

STEP SEVEN: O.K., you’re back. Put your gloves on and get to work. Before you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post. When it’s finger-tight, either tighten it by hand if you’re strong enough (it takes about one-half to three-quarters of a turn, no more: read the instructions on the filter), or flip the oil filter wrench over on the socket wrench and tighten it that way.

STEP EIGHT: We recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Scooch it up tight with the socket set, but not so tight that you can’t get it off the next time (remember your struggles earlier; better to have it snug but not stripped.) Now take the oil drain pan and the empty milk bottle and the funnel. If you have a friend, have him hold the bottle while you pour the oil into it. When most of the oil has found the bottom of the bottle, seal it with the lid, then wipe out the inside of the funnel with a clean rag. (We sometimes prop the drain pan against a wall and let it continue to drip into the bottle while we do the next step. You’ll need an extra funnel to do this.)

STEP NINE: Set the cleaned funnel into the oil filler hole and pour in as many quarts as the manufacturer recommends. As the oil fills, begin cleaning up. Throw the newspapers in the trash and wipe down all your tools. Discard the empty oil containers in a recycling bin. After the oil is all in, twist the oil cap back on and check the dipstick for oil level, just to make sure. Take the old oil filter, place it in the Ziploc bag, and seal it.

STEP TEN: Start the engine and let it idle for about five minutes, looking for leaks. Place the milk container and the Ziploc bag in a box, and set it somewhere in the car where it can’t tip over. Drive to the nearest oil recycling center (as we discussed, most of the national chains, such as Econo Lube N’ Tune, Jiffylube, Grease Monkey, etc., will take your old oil and filters). Take a last look underneath for leaks.

Product Description
Angle Opening Hydraulic Wrench Sets… More >>

Angle Opening Hydraulic Wrench Sets

Martin Tools 276-3725: Hydraulic Wrenches

Martin Tools 276-3729: Hydraulic Wrenches